UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine

School of Veterinary Medicine


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COMPANION ANIMAL BEHAVIOR PROGRAM
School of Veterinary Medicine

PROVIDE BASIC CARE SUCH AS
FOOD, WATER, AND SHELTER

 

 

NUTRITIONAL MANAGEMENT AND WEIGHT CONTROL

The nutritional requirements for dogs and cats have been worked out carefully and have been incorporated into commercial diets as presented in reputable brands. Homemade diets rarely contain all the nutrients and vitamins/minerals that an animal needs for long term feeding. Veterinary nutritionists recommend that the diet you feed your dog should have been tested for your dog's life stage in AAFCO (American Association of Feed Control Officials) feeding trials, not just formulated to meet levels established by AAFCO. If a food has been tested in feeding trials, it will be stated on the package. The testing is broken down into trials for the different life stages since they would each have different requirements: growth, maintenance, lactation/reproduction.

The amount to feed depends on the animal and activity level. The amounts suggested on the dog food label are only guidelines which must be tailored to the individual animal. Some geriatric animals may need as much food as a 2 year old, but others may need to be changed to a lower caloric density diet, such as a senior diet. Others may have medical conditions that dictate what diet should be fed. To decide what and how much to feed your dog, consult with your veterinarian, especially where specific problems exist.

Obesity is the most common nutritional problem in companion animals. It can predispose to medical problems such as heart disease, diabetes, orthopedic disease, skin disease, liver disease and creates increased surgical risks. Certain breeds are predisposed to being overweight, but any dog or cat can become overweight by having too much caloric intake for the energy expended. Since there is so much variation in body size, structure, breed, sex, and age between dogs and even cats, there is no reliable method of assigning an optimal weight. Therefore, an individual pet's optimal weight is generally judged by physical appearance using a few key criteria. For example, at an optimal body weight, a dog should have ribs that can barely be seen and can be felt without excess fat covering (you shouldn't have to dig to feel them). Dogs should have a "wast" behind the ribs when looking from above, and a tuck when looking from the side.

The solution for an overweight dog or cat is theoretically simple: decrease the number of calories taken in and increase the number of calories expended; the pet will lose weight. As a guardian, you have complete control over what your animal is able to eat. But as with dieting in humans, it is difficult to lose weight. The simplest method of decreasing weight is to cut back the amount of food you give the dog or cat with each meal. Often, people will feel that their animals are acting hungry if they are fed less than their normal amount. This is why "light" foods have been created. They allow you to feed the same amount or more food while still decreasing the caloric intake since they have a lower density of calories. Another problem is feeding treats which are often forgotten in the caloric count. Carrots or plain rice cakes can be used as low calorie substitutes for dog treats. Exercising dogs can also help by increasing the number of calories burned, but it is usually difficult to burn enough calories to make a dramatic difference if no decrease in caloric intake is made.

Dogs and cats should always have fresh water available. Bowls should be emptied and cleaned daily. Milk should not be a substitute for water and can cause diarrhea in many animals. Lack of water or only offering stale water can lead to dehydration and diseases associated with the kidneys or urinary system.

Never miss an opportunity to train! Your pet should always be asked to perform a command before receiving meals or treats. This is a great way to reinforce good behavior and build trust.  Please click here for more information on being a leader.


 
 

ROUTINE CARE, HOUSING & GROOMING

  As guardian of a dog or cat, you need to watch for changes in frequency or character of urine and feces. An increase in water intake with accompanying increase in urination can be a sign of disease. Also any straining, blood, or change in consistency of urine and feces also requires a visit to the veterinarian.
 
 

Flea free environment

  Most areas below 5,000 (?) feet will have fleas at some time during the year. Animals going outdoors at all without any flea control products will almost certainly have some fleas. For many animals, fleas do not pose a serious problem, causing only mild irritation and carrying tapeworms. But for others, fleas may cause allergic reactions causing severe itching and hair loss, even leading to self-mutilation. Also people in the household may be affected by flea bites. There are currently many products available that can treat the environment and/or the animal to prevent flea problems. Each has different advantages and disadvantages. Since products change quickly and many are available through your veterinarian, discuss your situation with your veterinarian to find the right products for your pet.
 
 

Housing

  When dogs and cats spend much of their time outdoors, it is more difficult to control parasites, and to notice problems in urination or defecation. If you have outdoor dogs or cats, be sure to periodically monitor them. Dogs and cats need protection from the elements and weather. Shelter such as a doghouse or shed should be available. Be careful with pets allowed outdoors, especially on holidays such as July 4th and Halloween. See box on indoor vs. outdoor cats.
 
 

Grooming

  Depending on the breed of dog or cat you have chosen, you may need to groom daily to only occasionally. It is important in breeds with dense undercoats to brush out shedding loose fur that leads to matts in the coat. Matts prevent air from reaching the skin and can lead to skin disease or trap grass seeds, which can dig into the skin. A professional groomer can help keep your dog or cat's coat clean and well-kept. Nails need to be trimmed periodically, including dewclaws which can grow back into the pad if allowed to grow excessively.
 
 

Routine home check-ups

  You should check your dog's body daily for lumps, cuts, swelling, or any other changes. Your veterinarian may find abnormalities that you miss, but generally animals have their veterinary physicals only once a year. Animals can't describe their difficulties, so it is important to be alert and spot problems early, and seek veterinary attention when needed. A home check-up should include looking in the ears, mouth, and between toes if your dog is prone to foxtails (grass seeds).

First aid kit to have at home for your animal:

  • rectal thermometer 
  • hydrogen peroxide 
  • comb and brush 
  • shampoo 
  • nail trimmers with powder available to stop accidental bleeding 
  • toothbrush and toothpaste 
  • scale for monitoring weight changes 

 

 

Declawing of cats

  Declawing is a permanent surgical procedure, termed tenectomy, where the last bone, or phalanx, and claw of each toe on the cat's paw is removed. It is frequently done on the front feet to prevent cats from scratching furniture or people, after which the cats usually are kept indoors. Even with pain medications, the procedure undoubtedly creates pain and soreness for a few days. Other options are available such as methods of behavior modification, Soft Paws R, frequent nail trimming, using toys that do not allow a caretaker to be accidentally injured, or referral to a behaviorist. Ask your veterinarian for options before considering surgery, since this procedure cannot be undone once performed. However, some people view it as preferable to allowing the cat outdoors. (See Understand your animal's behavior: Provide appropriate scratching areas)
 
 

Litterbox management

  A good rule-of-thumb for the number of litterboxes to have is the number of cats you have plus one. This is because litterboxes also can be a potential source of conflict between multiple cats or your cat will prefer not to use them and use a corner of your house instead. They should be placed in quiet areas of the house, not in high-traffic paths. Cats are generally quite fastidious and do not like to use litterboxes that are not clean. Certain cats may prefer one type of litter, litterbox, or liner in their box. In general, the majority of cats will prefer the sand clumping type litter without a liner. Be careful of using this type of litter with young kittens who after 4 weeks of age begin roaming and exploring by licking and cleaning themselves. This litter when eaten expands and can be fatal if enough is ingested. (See Understand your animal's behavior: The litterbox)
 
 

Indoor versus outdoor cats

  In the past, dogs were allowed to roam freely without supervision. Over time, caretakers have come to understand that dogs should be kept on leash or confined within yards/houses for their safety as well as the safety of the public. Many cat caretakers have followed the same trend. Many people believe that cats are a more wild species who require time outdoors for their happiness. Some of these people also feel they are willing to have a cat that has a shorter lifespan if the cat is happy. Others believe that indoor cats can be just as happy and do not even wish to go outdoors when raised indoors from kittenhood. Some caretakers deal with behavior problems, such as scratching of furniture and urine marking or inappropriate elimination by allowing their cats to go outdoors rather than try to treat the behavioral problems.
 

There are many disadvantages to allowing cats outdoors which include:

  • cats kill between 4 and 5 million birds in the U.S. each day (even well-fed cats will hunt)
  • millions of cats are killed by cars each year
  • cats on roads can cause car accidents when drivers try to avoid hitting them
  • exposure to infectious diseases such as rabies, feline leukemia
  • possible infection with parasites such as fleas, ticks, and intestinal parasites
  • cats can be chased by dogs or other cats and become injured, killed, or lost 
  • malicious people can take, injure, poison, or kill your cat
  • cats are prey for wild animals such as coyotes and foxes 
  • cats who live outdoors have been shown to have shorter life spans than those who live indoors
  • cats leave their feces and urine in/on neighbor' s property 
  • cats crawl into the engine of cars for warmth and can be killed when the car is started 
  • outdoor cats are at higher risk for squamous cell carcinoma, a form of skin cancer induced by excessive sunlight exposure 
  • exposure to unknown toxins accidentally ingested including rodent bait inside dead rodents
  • inability of caregiver to monitor urination and defecation for abnormalities 
  • unable to receive medications consistently when needed 

 

PARTIAL LIST OF TOXINS TO CATS & DOGS AROUND THE HOUSE

  • glycol (antifreeze) 
  • any plant in the lily family 
  • onions 
  • rat bait (especially for cats who eat dying or dead rodents who have ingested the bait) 
  • snail bait (some dogs will seek this out even if it is hidden under plants in the yard) 
  • prescription medications (both for the animal and for you) 
  • chocolate (especially bakers or unsweetened chocolate) 
  • many plants including Philodendron, Poinsettia, Mistletoe 
  • thread and needle (not a toxin, but cats ingest thread attached to needles then swallow the needles) 
  • moldy walnuts or moldy dairy products 
  • insecticides 
  • petroleum products 
  • household cleaners 
  • leave-in toilet bowl cleaners for animals who like to drink out of the toilet 

ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center: 1-888-426-4435

Dog and Cat Care Guidelines